Since the Turkish invasion of 1974, the island of Cyprus is divided into two main entities: an internationally recognised Greek republic in the south, and a Turkish republic of northern Cyprus, only recognised by Turkey. The situation on the ground is however a bit more complex: a UN buffer zone separates the two states, occupying an almost impenetrable swathe of territory that cuts the country (and the capital, Nicosia) in half – thus constituting a third territorial entity on the ground.
And there is a fourth entity: the British Sovereign Base, an area encompassing 254 km² in two separate areas on the southern and western coast of the island, totalling 3% of
Cyprus’ land area. Great Britain as former colonial power retained these areas when Cyprus gained independence in 1960: they continue to serve as important military outposts in a sensitive area of the world – the Middle East and the Suez Canal Zone.
The complication doesn’t end there. The southern area is called Akrotiri (also known as the Western Sovereign Base Area – WSBA), the eastern area is known as Dhekelia (officially the Eastern Sovereign Base Area – ESBA). The WSBA is completely surrounded by Greek Cypriot territory. This map focuses on the ESBA, which is an essential part of the incredibly complicated cartographic puzzle that is eastern Cyprus.
· The ESBA is bordered in the south by the Mediterranean Sea, in the east and west by Greek Cyprus, in the north by the UN buffer zone and by Turkish Cyprus. It thus cuts the territory of Greek Cyprus in two parts.
· This effectively makes the small area east of the ESBA an exclave of Greek Cyprus. It’s unclear to me how this area ‘communicates’ with the main part of the state: are there corridors through which traffic can pass unhindered by the British military?
· To make matters even more complicated, this map indicates three areas inside the ESBA that are part of Greek Cyprus. These three enclaves in the ESBA are Xylothimbo, Ormidhia and a small coastal area remaining unnamed in this map. These are foreign, civilian areas inside a military base. Very impractical, to say the least. Why were these areas not included in the British Sovereign Base?
· The third, unnamed enclave (from a British point of view; from a Greek Cypriot perspective, the area is also an exclave) is Dhekelia power station, according to Wikipedia. Its area is again divided into two by a British military road. The southern part borders the sea, but does not possess Greek Cypriot territorial waters.
· The ESBA also includes an area calles Agios Nikolaos (Saint Nicholas), which in its turn is not contiguous with the main area of the ESBA. Why was this difficult territorial setup chosen?
· The map seems to indicate that the sliver of land between Agios Nikolaos and the rest of the ESBA is under administration of the UN. How does traffic between these two parts work?
· Conversely, there is a strip of UN territory to the east of Agios Nikolaos separating Greek from Turkish Cyprus which is not linked to the rest of the UN buffer zone. Can UN monitors pass freely through British military territory?
· Agios Nikolaos seems to be the only part of the border between Greek and Turkish Cyprus which is not controlled by the UN. Is the British Army responsible for the maintenance of the cease-fire in this area?
This map was taken from this page at Wikipedia, which also provides a map for the Akrotiri (WSBA) part of the British Sovereign Base.

No, see there’s a thick border around the sliver of land between the main ESBA and Agios Nikolaos. That indicates that it’s a military corridor for the ESBA, so the whole ESBA is actually contiguous.
As for how the exclaves work, I’d imagine that it works in much the same way as military bases do in the UK. Normally there are civilian roads criscrossing the bases, fenced off on either side for much of the way but with relatively open villages scattered inside the base area.
Comment by Polocrunch — November 16, 2006 @ 3:10 pm
On closer inspection, you’re right about that sliver of land; my eyes are not what they used to be, apparently. Thanks for the comment on civilian traffic in military bases.
Comment by strangemaps — November 16, 2006 @ 4:24 pm
Dear Curator of Strangemaps,
You have touched upon the plight of a beleaguered people and for this we thank you and will prepare a sacrifice in your honour. Actually it will be another excuse for a “Souvla” which is much more than the local form of a BBQ.
There are, however a few things you could bear in mind if you ever visit this strange little corner of our little corner of the planet.
1. If born in either SBA you are entitled to British Citizenship
2. If you play your cards right you can get away without paying income taxes.
3. If caught speeding, you can claim you do not recognize british jurisdiction and get away with it (till they nab you again).
As for the rest of the island, it’s interesting to see how many troops there re from around the globe – not to mention airfields.
Of course it all starts making sense once you get there! “Kopiase” (welcome, have a seat and grab a bite) as we say in Cyprus.
Comment by Noullis — November 19, 2006 @ 7:04 pm
If you think looking at Cyprus on a map is strange, think of what it feels like to have been born and raised there, and to call it home.
The “sliver of land” is a bit of the old Nicosia to Famagusta road. It’s still open. The road itself is ESBA. The land to the south of it is Republic of Cyprus and the area close to the road is patrolled by the Cyprus National Guard. The land to the North is part of the DMZ patrolled by the UN. Further to the North are Turkish Army guardposts. If you find you need to stop for a leak, you had better keep close to the road. If you stray too far, there’s no telling which patrol might run into you first.
If you followed the road too far before 2003, you came to a small Turkish Army checkpoint marked only by a guardpost with an armed soldier, and a pair of red and white striped oil drums. Not a good idea if you were a Greek Cypriot. If you follow it now, you reach a much bigger checkpoint at which you can cross into the TRNC.
The eastern “exclave” of the Republic is connected to the rest of the Republic of Cyprus by a number of roads, including a motorway, which pass through the ESBA. Responsibility for patrolling the roads lies with the SBA police.
If you think this bit is weird, look a bit to the North. The southern part of the town of Famagusta, the area known as Varosha, has been occupied by the Turkish Army since 1974, and has been a restricted area since. In 1974, it was the most developed part of Famagusta. Today, it’s a ghost town, surrounded by a nine-foot-high barbed wire fence. No map can convey the poignancy of the place.
Derelict beachside hotels, some bearing bomb damage, deserted apartment blocks, homes and businesses line empty streets overgrown with vegetation. In many homes, personal effects abandoned as the former inhabitants fled the advance of the Turkish Army in August 1974 are still to be found. A small search party, which recently obtained access to just one of the streets, re-united a man now in his mid-thirties with a photo of himself as a two-year-old child, retrieved from his abandoned family home.
The island’s capital Nicosia, my home town, is only a little less strange. At its centre is the old medieaeval town, surrounded by a 15th century Venetian-built wall. A narrow strip of the DMZ runs right through it, so it too has its share of derelict homes and businesses. Only the dereliction here dates from much earlier – mostly from 1963-63, and in some parts, from 1958.
Welcome to Cyprus.
Comment by stravoxylo — November 24, 2006 @ 6:33 pm
@Noullis:
@Stavroxylo:
‘Efcharisto’ very much for your insightful comments on this map – they’ve made what seems like a cartographic abstraction come to life. As ‘interesting’ as such a map might be to outsiders such as myself, your experiences point out that this strange map represents a very difficult and tragic situation on the ground. I can only hope it will be resolved at some point in the not too distant future – after which we can always keep the map as a souvenir!
Comment by strangemaps — November 24, 2006 @ 9:10 pm
Wikipedia is the key to most success online, when it comes to collabritive content adding. I have spent many hours writing articles for Jimmy Wales and am very happy with this project. I am based in Seminole FL close to the wikipedia offices in St Petersburg. I love contributing!
Happy New Year Bloggers!
Comment by wikipedia — January 1, 2007 @ 2:44 am
There used to be a small commercial airport east of Limassol.
Is it still there?
Things have changed and I forget exactly where it was located.
Does anyone remember or know it’s location ?
Comment by Philip — January 23, 2007 @ 4:48 pm
@ Philip: [with strangemaps' permission]
The airport you’re referring to could wellbe Larnaca airport which is the main airport of the Republic of Cyprus. But hell, you can’t spit without hitting an airport or an airfield – military or civilian in our little homeland!
Comment by Noullis — March 2, 2007 @ 11:45 am
Philip
You are right there was a small airstrip, used by RAF spitfires WW2.
It was on an area now partly on a by-pass and the new Carrefour supermarket
A similar strip was West of Larnaca , and now the main Cyprus civil airport
There was even an air strip East of Kato Paphos, which part of still visable and was the scene of a spectacular no engine landing of a Romaniam Ilushyan in 1961
Comment by charlie — July 21, 2007 @ 11:17 am
Noullis,
No, not what is now Larnaca airport and I’m not 100% sure it is the same one Charlie has touched on as I’ve since been told that is was to the west of Limassol, near Erimni.
Until recently it seems the land/strip had been used by rally drivers but is now being built on by a new development. This was known as Limassol Airport I do believe. I dove out there but could find no sign of it a couple of months back.
Charlie,
Where exactly is this old airfield east of Kato Paphos or can you only see what remains of it from the air?
I was told also of an old, strictly military airfield somewhere near where the motorway splits to Nicosia and Larnaca travelling from Limassol but I cannot find any information and I’m lost using Google earth.
Philip
Comment by Philip — August 23, 2007 @ 4:08 pm
[...] Enclaves in Eastern Cyprus, en Strange Maps. Las fronteras de Chipre, web de Nicolette Nielsen, con fotografías y descripciones de todas las curiosidades fronterizas de Chipre. [...]
Pingback by Las fronteras de Chipre (II) « Fronteras — January 20, 2008 @ 1:53 am
Cyprus is an amazing island – especially for people who love sea, sun and romance!
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teşekkür ederim
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Muchas gracias
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